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95-point oaked NZ Sauvi Blancs - July 2019

We've all three of the 95-point Outstandings from the July edition's panel tasting of Oaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs.

For some, it's a an irreverent, weird fish of a thing to do, putting NZSB in oak. For others, it's very much the best of both worlds, creating a wine of the utmost flavour and great complexity indeed. Even if you think/know oaked NZSB is  not your your glass of wine, it's worth a look - the degree of oak influence in quite a few wines is vanishingly small.

It's tempting to say (with apologies), "if you like oak, and you like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (NZSB), you'll LOVE oaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc".

But we often find this not to be true.

That's two very strong flavours there and, for some, that would be like a ... er ... kipper vindaloo.

However, we also often find those who love NZSB but claim not to like oak (based often on bad events involving poor 90s oaked Chardonnay), and are very pleasantly surprised - and often fully wowed -  when they run into a good oaked NZSB and all the flavour complexity that is the hallmark of this style.

We've even seen the most devout of white Burgundy aficionados - no fans, typically of the often-unhinged zinginess of NZSB - moved to significant purchase of a good oaked NZSB. Indeed, as the Decanter panel stress, "If you thought you knew NZSB and have previously dismissed it for being overly fruity, perhaps it's time to think again and try some of the alternative styles that Kiwi winemakers are now dishing up". 

As the Decanter panel are at pains to point out, it's all about getting the oak/SB fruitiness balance just right and that's all about subtlety: the three Outstanding panel-toppers veered well away from too much of either. The oak effect is carefully muted/reined back using some combination of

  • big vessels;
  • older (and minimal new) oak;
  • barrel fermentation without oak ageing;
  • fractional blending <ie only a proportion of the wine is subject to oak>;
  • partial malolactic fermentation (MLF) to blunt the edge of overly-biting acidity that may clash with the oak flavours; and
  • naturally-occurring yeasts.

It's also key to use SB grapes that are less "full-on"; that is, those with lower concentrations of heavily aromatic aroma/flavour compounds (mainly thiols, for you chemists out there). Some lees ageing, a bit of bâtonnage, too... these all help to get the flavours melded and integrated. Get these factors under control, give them a little time together and you have a fine specimen.

And then, where oaked NZSB really shines, as with many oaked wines, is with food; those strong, contasting fruit and oak flavours meld well with many meals, even lighter meat dishes.

Two of the three finest specimens from the review are no surprise (at all) to us: they, after all, are by-words for oaked NZSB.

The third, though, is a relative unknown and perhaps the most deserving of your time, especially at the price. Oaked NZSBs, after all, are seldom cheap: the average bottle price of the 3 Outstandings and 18 Highly Recommendeds was almost exactly £20.

They are: 

1) Cloudy Bay's Te Koko is almost certainly the biggest name in the world in oaked Sauvi Blanc - Mondavi's To Kalon may run it close, as do a few old-school, top-end Pouilly-Fumés. The 2015 Te Koko scores 95 points here and lands much praise. It (like Cloudy Bay itself in NZSB generally) was the pioneer of the more complex NZSB style. It uses wild yeasts, 100% oak (but only 8% of it new) and no steel for fermentation and ageing. "Crisp and vivacious", "evolved beautifully", "zesty and bright palate", "lovely, lingering finish" and "perfectly pitched oak influence", said the panel. It's admittedly £38 a bottle (and quite a bit more elsewhere), but this is arguably THE oaked NZSB.

Cloudy Bay

Te Koko 2015

£38.10

 

 2) Almost as fabled, but ~60% of the price (£21.95) is the offering from Kevin Judd - he who famously splintered from Cloudy Bay - at Greywacke - their/his Wild Sauvignon Blanc 2016. This has many devout fans at Exel. This is very much about the use of wild yeasts (of course), entailing a very long, slow fermentation in 100% old oak, before time on the lees in steel. The judges were just as enthralled here: "highly floral expression", "fine and focussed throughout", "very pretty indeed", "elegant, seamless palate", "gentle, yet tastes expensive" (!), "impressive depth", "delightful balance" and "really well done". This is one to try, for sure.

Greywacke

Wild Sauvignon Blanc 2016

£21.95

 

3) It's been quite a week for the last - but definitely not the least - of the three. On Tuesday, te Pā's Oke 2017 secured a Gold medal at DWWA19 - one of few NZSBs to do so. Today, it lands an Outstanding from a different jury. "Hugely aromatic - reminiscent of ice cream cornets, nougat and vanilla", "beautifully textured and rounded palate", "plenty of concentration", "flowing beautifully on the palate", "stunning", "satisfying depth" and "long, attractive and well-honed", they said. Wild yeasts, old oak barrels (in the odd shape of a cigar to increase surface area) and an extended maturation are the story here.

The great upside of the Oke is the price - just £16.00 a bottle. That's because we're able to take it directly from te Pā and cut out a large chunk of cost. Do disregard the £12 cost reported in the Decanter review - we can see no basis at all for that (and we fully investigated; indeed, we take the wine with the help of the importer listed there!)


Beyond these three, there are very finely-crafted Highly Recommendeds from Craggy Range, Ata Rangi and Clos Henri. Some have only the lightest of oak touches (see individual product pages which detail this), and are more "standard" NZSB in nature, albeit with just a touch more body and complexity. That's particularly true of the Mt Difficulty Bannockburn SB, which we particularly rate/recommend at £15.75 (NB: the 2018 scores 92, but is not yet into the UK; we offer the excellent 2017). This is particularly delicious - it has a wealth of stone fruit, a creamy texture, a light vanilla edge and a superb finish - especially for those requring a 'gateway' wine to transition to oaked NZSB...

 

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Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (1x75cl)

Awarded 95 points and Outstanding status by Decanter in their July 2019 panel tasting of Oaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs (see blue link below).

Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2015 - July 2019 Decanter review

Established in 1985, Cloudy Bay was one of the first five wine makers to venture into Marlborough. At the time, it was almost an unimaginable place to set-up a vineyard but Cloudy Bay’s founder, David Hohnen, was convinced of its potential to produce great wine and invested in the best land of the region. The winery was named after Cloudy Bay, a body of water explorer Captain James Cook found during his voyage to New Zealand in 1770. His discovery coincided with flooding in the region, which washed large amounts of sediment into the sea. Noticing the water’s opaque appearance, Cook christened the area Cloudy Bay. 

For its 34th vintage, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc reaffirms its outstanding quality. Cloudy Bay has built a reputation for refined, elegant Sauvignon Blanc and the 2018 vintage is no exception thanks to the stable weather during the harvest. Warm and dry conditions through December and cooler weather from January onwards allowed for more steady ripening.

100% Sauvignon Blanc.

To see an excellent information sheet and tasting note for this wine from the team at Cloudy Bay, please click on the blue link below.

Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2015 - fiche technique

£38.10

Greywacke Wild Sauvignon 2016 (1x 75cl)

Awarded 95 points and Outstanding status by Decanter in their July 2019 panel tasting of Oaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs (see blue link below).

Greywacke Wild Sauvignon 2016 - July 2019 Decanter review

Greywacke was created in 2009 by Kevin Judd, chief winemaker at Cloudy Bay from its inception for 25 years and instrumental in the international recognition which Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc enjoys now. The name 'Greywacke' was adopted by Kevin for his first Marlborough vineyard located in Rapaura in recognition of the high prevalence of rounded greywacke river stones in the soils of the vineyard, a sedimentary rock which is widely found in Marlborough. Kevin Judd is also New Zealand's finest wine photographer and has recently published a book 'The Landscape of New Zealand Wine'.

Fruit was sourced from various vineyard sites in the Southern Valleys and the central Wairau Plains, specifically in Woodbourne, Renwick and Rapaura. Soil types vary from the young alluvial deposits of Rapaura and Renwick, which contain high proportions of greywacke river stones, to the older and denser clay- loams of the Southern Valleys. A high percentage of the vineyards were trained using the divided Scott Henry canopy management system, with the balance on two- or three-cane vertical shoot positioning.

The season started in timely fashion and settled conditions during December allowed a generous crop to set. Extremely low rainfall during the early summer put pressure on water supplies, but rain in early January broke the drought and vineyards flourished as temperatures started to climb above average in the New Year. Considerable thinning was carried out across all varieties to establish ideal cropping levels. Harvest started in mid-March, and in late March northerly airstreams brought with it some rain, which put pressure on the harvest and led to remedial canopy and crop management being needed in many vineyards. Temperatures remained well above average and Marlborough’s classic Indian summer made a welcome appearance allowing vineyards to achieve full ripeness. The last Sauvignon Blanc was hand picked on 18th April 2016 under sunny skies.

Some vineyards were harvested by machine and others by hand, all into half-tonne bins, which were tipped directly into tank presses. The grapes were pressed lightly and the resulting juice was cold-settled prior to racking into mostly old French oak barriques. The juice underwent spontaneous indigenous yeast fermentation, the tail end of which continued for well over six months. The wine had occasional lees stirring and approximately two-thirds underwent malolactic fermentation. It was transferred out of oak prior to the following harvest and left on lees for a further six months.

See blue link below for Greywacke's own fiche technique/technical and tasting note on this eine.

Greywacke Wild Sauvignon 2016 - fiche technique

The Wild Sauvignon 2016 has aromas of shortbread, quinces and apricots, lemon zest and ginger, honeysuckle and vanilla bean – a delicious, sweet-scented fragrance of ripe fruit and Asian spices infused with a tarragon-like herbal thread and a faint whiff of wood smoke. Fermented entirely with naturally occurring yeast, this is an alternative style of Sauvignon Blanc that is both intricate and textural with a rich, succulent palate finishing crisp and long with a flinty dryness.

£21.95

te Pa Oke Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (1x75cl)

** NOW IN STOCK, ONLY AT EXEL WINES! **

Awarded a Gold medal and 95 points at the 2019 Decanter World Wine Awards (click link for details)

For other 2019 DWWA winners, click here.

Also awarded 95 points and Outstanding status by Decanter in their July 2019 panel tasting of Oaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs (see blue link below).

te Pa Sauvignon Blanc Oke 2017 - July 2019 Decanter review

And if you missed it in arriving here, here's our review of that Decanter panel test and the wines that scored well.

Based in the Marlborough Region, te Pā has a history stemming back almost 800 years. Set up by the MacDonald family whose Maori lineage goes back to 1350, the te Pā estate spreads over 400 hectares of vineyards in Marlborough’s Wairau and Awatere regions.

Nestled between the Wairau River and the azure waters of the Cook Strait, te Pā’s home block vineyard at the Wairau Bar is as majestic as it is productive. Thanks to a unique microclimate, the fruit parcels from this vineyard have a soft acidity, pungent aromatics, and complex, ripe flavour profiles.

te Pā Family Vineyards grow Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and their wines have won international acclaim under the expert supervision of Chief Winemaker Sam Bennett. Sam’s international experience has been in the cool climate regions of Tasmania, Oregon and Burgundy. He’s honed his Kiwi winemaking skills at wineries including Craggy Range in Hawke’s Bay and Marisco and Highfield in Marlborough. These roles have seen Sam work with great fruit from a diverse range of regions stretching from Hawke’s Bay to Martinborough, Marlborough, Nelson and Central Otago.


The fruit for this wine was sourced from select blocks in the lower Wairau Valley. These block have been historically the most intensely flavoured and balanced in the vineyard. Careful canopy and yield management was used to accentuate these positive characteristics. The fruit was hand-harvested and whole bunch pressed to give some beautiful pristine juice to work with. This was dropped to a mix of new and older French barrels without settling and left to allow the indigenous yeast to start the ferments. A selection of the best barrels occurred in October, when the wine was blended and then dropped back to barrel for another 2 months to allow the different components to integrate and evolve.

For more detail, see the blue link below for the excellent fiche technique/technical note from the team at te Pā.

Te Pa Sauvignon Blanc Oke 2017 - fiche technique

100% Sauvignon Blanc.

The high quality of the fruit, combined with the gentle and respectful approach in the winery has resulted in a wine with an intriguing combination of poise and elegance, balanced by an intense and complex flavour profile. Aromatically the wine gives impressions of grapefruit, citrus blossom, ripe stonefruit and flint. The palate is weighty with stonefruit and citrus pith to the fore. The fruit is supported by spice and toasted nuts, a hint of toffee and refreshing acidity.

£16.00

Mt Difficulty Bannockburn (Series) Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (1x75cl)

The 2018 vintage (not yet available in the UK) was awarded 92 points and Highly Recommended status by Decanter in their July 2019 panel tasting of Oaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs (see blue link below).

Mt Difficulty Bannockburn (Series) Sauvignon Blanc 2018 - July 2019 Decanter review

"Moderately weighty and flavoursome Sauvignon Blanc with rock melon, guava and capsicum flavours. Soft, fruity acidity, with a silken texture and just a hint of sweetness. Impressive purity." 

92 Points, Bob Campbell, MW, 14 Feb 2018

Established in 1992, the Dicey family owns some of the oldest vineyards in the Bannockburn region of Central Otago on the famous Felton Road and have acquired land over the last ten years to build up to over 40 hectares, including six single vineyard sites. Their portfolio vineyards spans Central Otago from Gibbston to Lowburn Valley and on to Bendigo home still under Mount Difficulty at Bannockburn.

Central Otago provides New Zealand’s only continental climate, combined with unique soils ideally suited for growing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. The Bannockburn area, in particular, is one of the few sites outside of Burgundy that lends itself to the growing of the pernickety Pinot Noir grape; Mt Difficulty craft wines in the Burgundian style whilst stamping the uniqueness of the terroir to produce structured and serious wines. Not content with growing superb Pinot Noir, they are also known for their aromatic whites and grape varieties such as their grower series Lowburn Chardonnay and Estate Chenin Blanc.

Winemaker-in-chief Matt Dicey has a lifelong association with the wine industry and is a fourth-generation vigneron. After achieving a Masters Degree in Oenology and Viticulture, Matt spent four years gaining experience overseas.

As with all New Zealand wines, Mt Difficulty adhere to strict sustainability practices and constantly strive towards organic production.

Mount Difficulty is the name on the leading wines. The ‘second label’ is named Roaring Meg; these wines are produced in a more fruit-driven, early-drinking style and have become a mainstay of the Mt Difficulty stable since their introduction in 2003.

See the blue link below for the excellent fiche technique/technical note from the team at Mt Difficulty.

Mt Difficulty Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc 2017 - fiche technique

This wine is 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

Hand harvested from the Templars Hill Vineyard in the Bannockburn area of Central Otago. The grapes are gently pressed and cold fermented in stainless steel and left on its lees for two months to retain maximum varietal fruit character and complexity. Herbaceous aromas combine with ripe gooseberry on the nose. The palate is full of citrus and grapefruit flavours intermingled with cut grass and a long tropical fruit finish.

£15.75

Craggy Range Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (1x75cl)

Awarded 91 points and Highly Recommended status by Decanter in their July 2019 panel tasting of Oaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs (see blue link below).

Craggy Range Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc 2018 - July 2019 Decanter review

The 2017 vintage was awarded a Gold Medal and 95 points at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards (click link for details).

For other 2018 DWWA winners, click here.

See blue link below for the fiche technique/technical note from the winemakers at Craggy Range.

Craggy Range Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc 2018 - fiche technique

Craggy Range produces a collection of iconic wines from multiple regions in New Zealand. Owner Terry Peabody and his family pursued the single vineyard approach to winemaking, planting on green fields and bare land ensuring a focus on quality from the very beginning. New Zealand, with its diversity of soils types offered the perfect location to plant the vines. From the stony, warm soils of the Gimblett Gravels in Hawke's Bay to the volcanic, clay soils of Te Muna Road in Martinborough these exceptional vineyards produce wines with amazing aromatics, purity and complexity.

Grown on the lower terrace at Te Muna Road, this wine shows a unique level of texture and complexity. The cooler climate of Martinborough ensures the wine is aromatic with steely minerality while the rocky soils gives intensity of the fruit.

Around 90% of the grapes used to make this wine are destemmed. It is then fermented using a combination of stainless steel tanks, French oak cuves & French oak barriques. The yeasts used are a mix of innoculated and indigenous.

This wine has a pale lemon straw colour. There are vibrant aromas of nectarine, green apple, honeysuckle and a hint of nettle. Lovely precision on the palate with a core of zesty fruit and a long satisfyingly dry textural finish. Matt Stafford, Chief Winemaker says: "We chase complexity in our Sauvignon... you can literally smell the meadow and taste the flintiness of the rock in these wines."

£15.95

Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (1x75cl)

The 2016 was awarded 90 points and Highly Recommended status by Decanter in their July 2019 panel tasting of Oaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs (see blue link below).

Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc 2016 - July 2019 Decanter review

Nestled under the southern foothills of Marlborough’s Wairau Valley, Clos Henri is the wine estate meticulously established and organically run by the famous Sancerre wine growing family of Henri Bourgeois. Uniting 10 generations of winegrowing know-how from the Bourgeois family, Clos Henri crafts textural and elegant wines, capturing the intense Marlborough character with the aim to reveal the identity of the Clos Henri terroir and a true sense of place in the wines. From the three different soil types of the estate, partially comprised of a clay hill slope, the family uses the best of French and New World winegrowing techniques to capture the essence of Marlborough’s intense character and reveal the identity and depth of the Clos Henri terroir. Their ultimate objective is to "offer a wine that tells the story of its origin, whispers it is not French but Marlborough and voices that it is a craft from the specific Clos Henri terroir” – says Arnaud Bourgeois, General Manager of Clos Henri.

In the French tradition, the vineyard is planted in high density to encourage competition between vines and restrain vigour. This natural vigour control means the vines put more energy into the grapes, rather than the canopy - concentrating the berries. Dry farming (using no irrigation) also helps keep vigour under control. By stressing the vines to just the right level, it forces the roots to go deeper in the soil, thereby getting the purest expression of our terroir and showing more minerality from the river stone soil.

See blue link below for the excellent fiche technique/technical note from the winemakers at Clos Henri.

Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc 2016 - fiche technique

100% Sauvignon Blanc.

Alcohol: 13.5%. Residual sugar: <1g/l. Ageing potential: 5-6 years from vintage.

The nose is refined and complex showing some citrus notes evolving into white peach aromas, with underlying chalky minerality. Delicate on the palate, the wine is textural and rich from the lees aging with layers of minerals, citrus and profound acidity balancing this dry and elegant wine, followed by a long finish.

£21.35
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