Chateau Talbot, we trust, needs minimal introduction: a Bordeaux Quatrième Cru chateau (and a veritable institution) in Medoc’s St-Julien AOC. Their grand vin, or first wine, is a Bordeaux superstar: thing is, you’ll seldom find it at less than £50 a bottle … and then you need to cellar it for ten years. This, the Connetable, on the other hand, is the chateau’s second wine and this, the 2007, has been cellaring nicely; supple body, soft tannins: check. This is a big but complex wine, as you might expect from its heritage. It does all that you would expect of a big, Left Bank red – cedar, vanilla, tobacco boxes – yes, all of that – atop the cassis of the Cab Sauv and the plums of the Merlot.