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Chenin Blanc

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Ken Forrester, Dirty Little Secret (Two) Chenin Blanc NV (1x 75cl)

** BROUGHT IN TO ORDER EACH MONDAY; if ordered by 9am on Monday morning, this will be with us by the end of the Wednesday! **

 

The 2015 vintage was awarded 95 points and rare Outstanding status by Decanter (www.decanter.com) in their December 2017 edition "Steven Spurrier's Fine Wines column (see blue link below).

Dirty Little Secret 2015 - Dec 2017 Decanter review

"Now a non-vintage blend of the 2016 and 2017 harvests, DLS is a funky, waxy, just-off-dry Chenin from Piekenierskloof, deliberately made in an oxidative style. Bready, yeasty and complex, with notes of orange zest and glycerol-derived sweetness". 94/100 Tim Atkin.

Without the efforts of men like Ken Forrester, South African Chenin Blanc might be scarcely more than a footnote to the country’s recent winemaking history.  This Zambia-born former restaurateur saw beyond the grape’s obvious quaffability, placing it firmly at the centre of his resurrection of the historic Scholtzenhof farm on the slopes of Stellenbosch’s Helderberg mountain in the early 1990s.
Twenty years on, Ken is affectionately known as ‘Mr Chenin’. 

When not revolutionising the South African wine industry, Ken remains a staunch family man, also surrounded by a veritable menagerie of several dogs, horses, stable cats, geese, owls and guineafowl. And he hasn’t entirely left his restaurant days behind – Ken part-owns renowned nearby restaurant 96 Winery Road with his brother Allan (also restaurant manager), winemaker Martin Meinert and chef Natasha Wray.

This wine is made by soaking the grape juice on the skins and stalks before pressing takes place in wooden vats. The fermentation is done using wild or natural yeasts after which malolactic fermentation is allowed to occur before the wine is moved into French oak barrels for a 5-month "rest" before being bottled with no filtration.

The result is a tight, bright, minerally wine with  good texture and mouthfeel and an interesting hint of phenolic structure - like soft acidity and pear drop intensity.  It has been built to age and gain complexity in bottle.

The Ken Forrester Winery have taken a trip backwards in time to make a thoroughly modern wine. A wine that will age beautifully for at least the next ten years, a tribute to the age and concentration of the vines, as well as to low, very low interruptive winemaking, a natural wine in every sense and finally bottled totally naturally with no cold stabilization or fining and it is crystal clear, slightly golden in a good way, with a still lime green rim and how did they do that? Well it's unfiltered, unfined ... and just a Dirty Little Secret - naturally!

See also blue link below for the fiche technique/technical note from Ken.

Ken Forrester, Dirty Little Secret (Two) Chenin Blanc NV - fiche technique

100% Chenin.

Very vibrant in the glass  - a bright gold with green glint to the rim. Nose is intense but restrained, with lots of character: set honey, baked apple strudel, warm spice and a touch of grapefruit. The palate is concentrated and tight but will open out. What you find on the nose transfers to the pallet, but with a fresh acidity holding it together. A beautiful texture. This should hold together over the next 10-20 yrs. (Exel's thanks to importer John for this tasting note).

ABV = 14.0%.

£60.80

Mulderbosch Single Vineyard Block W Chenin Blanc 2017 (1x75cl)

Awarded 17 points (of 20) on Jancis Robinson's Purple Pages (www.JancisRobinson.comreviewer Richard Hemming MW  - in July 2020 (see blue link below)....

Mulderbosch Single Vineyard Block W Chenin Blanc 2017 - jancisrobinson.com July 2020 review

... and made one of three Wines of the Week (all SA Chenins) on 24th July, 2020, the wine described thus:

"Block W is one of three single-vineyard Chenin Blancs made by Mulderbosch, from a granitic site south of Stellenbosch and close to False Bay. Other than the size of vessel (Mulderbosch choose 1,500-litre foudres for fermentation and maturation), the winemaking and analysis are very similar to those of the Hope Marguerite, yet the result is appreciably different.

There is a creamier texture here, with riper apple fruit. With its nutty complexity and pale golden colour, there is also a suggestion of either slight oxidation or botrytis influence (or both, since they often go together), which combine brilliantly with the fresh acidity and bitter finish".

___

Founded in 1989, multi-award winning Mulderbosch Vineyards is one of South Africa’s foremost wine producers. As advocates to the Integrated Production of Wine (IPW) code, they manage their vineyards limiting the use of herbicides, fungicides and pesticides. They use a restrained approach in the cellar to produce distinctive and characterful wines that represent the Stellenbosch terroir. Chenin Blanc is the Cape’s signature variety and they have the largest planting of this variety in the world. In 1996, Mulderbosch was one of the very first producers in the Cape to ferment Chenin Blanc in barriques. The resultant wine garnered an avid following and Mulderbosch has since become synonymous with the variety.

The grapes come from the Single Vineyard Block W, which is located in the Rustenhof area of Stellenbosch. The soil is Cambrian Cape granite, a duplex soil with a marked textural contrast between the coarse sandy topsoil and the clay enriched subsoil. The clay subsoil, offers good water retention properties, which help to nourish the vines during the hot summers. The vineyard is situated just over 2.5 miles from the sea and vines are grown at an elevation of 65 to 70 metres. The sea breezes have a cooling influence on the vines, imbuing the grapes with a natural acidity that beautifully balances the ripe, concentrated flavours the grapes reach in this warm, sunny climate.

The 2017 vintage has measured up to the highly-rated 2015s and some argue that the vintage has produced wines of greater purity and intensity of flavour. Windy conditions in the summer of 2016 and leading up to the harvest played a role in moderating excessive temperatures. The increased wind activity had a beneficial effect on the grape quality, notably on the aromatic intensity. Block W was harvested at a low sugar degree to ensure balanced acidity.

The grapes were whole bunch pressed, settled overnight and racked to 1,500 litre foudres for fermentation and maturation. Once fermentation was complete, the wines remained on lees for the duration of their 10 month maturation in barrel, which imparted texture and complexity. The wines were racked and prepared for bottling in January of the following year.

100% Chenin Blanc. 

Mineral in profile, this wine is tightly wound in its youth, slowly maturing over time to release delicate floral nuances, trimmed with a finely poised line of acidity. Textured with delicate spice from subtle oak ageing, this is a superlative example of Chenin Blanc with a saline finish.

ABV = 12.0%. 

£22.15
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