Awarded 90 points and Highly Recommended status by Decanter (www.decanter.com) in their January 2018 edition panel review of Vintage Champagne (see blue link below).
Devaux D Brut 2008 - January 2018 Decanter review
Devaux is a boutique Champagne brand located in Bar-sur-Seine in the southerly Aube region of Champagne, some 60km north of Burgundy. Thanks to this favourable southerly location, Devaux is a Pinot Noir and rosé specialist. The house was founded in 1846, and was family owned for generations. In 1987, in the absence of a family heir, ownership was passed to a united group of winegrower families, known today as the "Groupe Vinicole Champagne Devaux". Thanks to being owned by these growers, Devaux can boast total control over its grape supply which is a rarity in Champagne, a region where growers traditionally sell to the houses who control the brands.
The "D Collection" wines are Devaux's very best. The grapes come from highly select, sustainably farmed parcels across 35 hectares. The majority of the vineyards are situated in the Aube on Kimmeridgian limestone-clay soils. This continental location, on the slopes of the Côte des Bars, is important; it gives the Pinot Noir richness on the nose and a long finish, while retaining finesse. The Chardonnay in the blend is grown on the fine chalky soils of the Côte des Blancs, Vitry and Montgueux ("the Meursault of Champagne") to give liveliness and elegance.
2008 was initially a difficult year with widespread mildew. However, drier conditions in August and a fine, warm September helped to balance the ripening of the grapes. The 2008 wines have fresh acidity balanced by sound ripeness achieved towards the end of the season.
The wine was fermented in stainless steel, followed by partial malolactic fermentation to give extra suppleness. Following fermentation, the liqueur de tirage was added and the wine underwent a slow second fermentation in bottle, and extended ageing on its lees for seven to eight years. This resulted in a wine with a finer, more persistent mousse and greater potential for complexity. After disgorgement, the wine received a Brut dosage of around 6g/l and was aged for a further six to nine months before release.
Deep gold in colour. Complex and elegant aromas of white peaches and orange zest are followed by warm bready notes. The palate has a refreshing acidity and evolves with elegant citrus notes, finishing with a dried fruit character.