Jean-Claude Boisset was radically transformed with the arrival in 2002 of viniculteur Grégory Patriat, one of the best viticulturalists/winemakers of his generation in Burgundy. Grégory had spent the previous three years working in the vineyards at Domaine Leroy and still spends a great deal of his time in the vineyards, paying his growers by the hectare in order to ensure low yields. He also prefers to work with organic growers, as he finds they produce better fruit. Unlike other Burgundian négociants, Grégory specialises in making wines from 'lieu-dits' or tiny plots of vines, something which accounts for the limited production of most of his wines.
Clos de la Roche is a highly regarded Grand Cru of 16 hectares in Morey-Saint-Denis, which sits between Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny. 'La Roche' is a Grand Cru which takes its name from a rock used in Celtic times for rituals. This Cru produces Morey's most robust wines. This wine was made from old vines which were managed intensively and organically: low yields were achieved through careful pruning, debudding, cluster thinning and little or no use of fertiliser. The hard brown pebbly limestone soil makes a very firm wine with longevity.
The Côte de Nuits was severely affected by the hail storms and wet weather that characterised the late spring and early summer of 2012. With poor flowering conditions, there was low fruit set which resulted in reduced yields. Nevertheless, great care of the remaining grapes ensured excellent quality at harvest.
The grapes were carefully handpicked into 20 kilogram ventilated crates. They were sorted once at the vineyard and then again at the winery. The grapes were entirely destemmed (but not crushed) and transferred by gravity into tanks. Maceration lasted for three weeks, with occasional punching down of the cap. The wine was aged in oak barrels for sixteen to eighteen months, of which 50% were new.
The nose is complex with black fruit, spice, roast coffee and a very elegant and delicate touch of oak from the ageing in barrel. On the palate, the wine is powerful and long with an elegant finish.