Sandro Mosele, Kooyong’s winemaker, combines an Italian heritage with an Australian ‘can-do’ attitude and a love of Burgundy – a multi-cultural mix which finds expression through these archetypal cool-climate wines from the Mornington Peninsula. The pastoral charms of the area form a backdrop for a vineyard split into five parcels, a number of clones and a variety of soils. This focus on single vineyards and individual terroir is Kooyong’s mission statement – again, the influence of Burgundy is clear. In the winery, Sandro is a relentless experimenter, happy to try wooden fermenters and unlined concrete vats; never content to stand still, but never straying far from Kooyong’s clearly identifiable – and increasingly talked-about – style.
The fruit was entirely destemmed and fermentation took place in large-format concrete and stainless steel tanks. Fermentation occurred spontaneously with ambient yeasts and lasted for 19 days. Following fermentation, the wine was pressed and racked into French oak barriques (of which 25% were new) and underwent indigenous malolactic fermentation. The wine was racked only once, with the total maturation period lasting 14 months. It was then bottled without fining or filtration.
The 2015 Haven delivers a calm, cool nose with a plethora of black and red fruits plus spicy notes of cardamon, nettle and dried orange. The palate has all the usual Haven depth and boldness, complemented with a tight tannic line, juicy black cherry flavours and fine structural elements. The flesh of the palate allows accessibility now, however the structure suggests this is a wine that will develop even more interest with time.