Awarded 98 points and ultra-rare Exceptional status by Decanter (www.decanter.com) in their July 2017 edition review of Grower Champagne (see blue links below).
Champagne Pierre Bertrand Brut Premier Cru NV - July 2017 Decanter review
Decanter review - individual reviewers' comments
This is quite some Champagne and remarkable for the price.
The varietal mix is now Chardonnay 65 %, Pinot Meunier 5 %, Pinot Noir 30 %.
Grapes are grown only on vineyards of Premier Cru villages (you'd easily clear £30 a bottle for this privilege normally) on the Coteaux de Cumières and Hautvillers in the Marne Valley, yielding great intensity and concentration.
Based on reserve wines from 2013 (40%) and 'current vintage' (at time of bottling) 2014 (60%). Tirage started (ie bottled) in March 2015. Spends over 4 years sur lie/on its lees before disgorgement.
At 7g/l of dosage/residual sugar, this is at the drier end of Brut, but the fruit ripeness adds an exciting extra sensation of sweetness. Finally, Pierre Bertrand are rightly proud of their mousse onctueuse – smooth mousse – and we concur: it makes for a truly delicious Champagne experience.
One expects exhilarating acidity and and citrus zing in almost any Champagne - this does these in spades - but what makes it really stand out are both the ripeness of fruit flavours and the delicate florality of the nose. Pierre Bertrand see that fruitiness as “damson and pear” while we at Exel thought more “peach and nectarine”; either way, this is one seriously fruity mouthful. Florally, the makers go with “hawthorn flower” and we are not botanically inclined to disagree.
ABV = 12.5%.