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"Riesling? Really?”... in rescue of a lost gem

Riesling? Really?”

Yes, really.

How very often we hear that refrain. Not perhaps, from our more serious wine-drinking friends and customers, but definitely from the greater wine-drinking public. As Oz Clarke puts it, “I wonder what it feels like to be the wine experts’ favourite grape, yet fail to excite the palates of the vast majority of wine drinkers across the world”.

How very true. Somewhere out there, Riesling lost its way very, very badly in the eyes of the everyman (or everywoman), particularly in the UK. Oz draws out one key reason for this, which is the falling-in-love of the white wine drinker with oakier, fuller-bodied wines (Chardonnay, Chenin, Semillon, Viura), especially in the 1980s, leaving Riesling – quite literally – on the shelf.

We might advance one more obvious contention: that the invasion and domination, at that same time, of Blue Nun, Liebfraumilch and tat-end Piesporter brought an association in the mind of the wine fan between Riesling and sweetish, sickly(ish), insipid wines (albeit mildly refreshing and curiously good with Chinese take-away) that had become ubiquitous and common. The weird truth here is that those wines contained either no or very little Riesling to speak of (all being much built on the (fairly dreadful) Müller-Thurgau grape). But, facts being thrown aside, German whites became seen as very “ordinary”, Riesling was famous as the German white, and so the unfortunate association was made.

 

Riesling? Into the 1990s, the UK was having Nun of that.

All of which was exacerbated as the world moved towards fully dry whites: after all, Riesling was sweet(ish) and thus not to be drunk. It’s a perception that was wrong again: most of the world’s Rieslings are, and have always been, dry wines…. but the UK only saw the off-dry ones.

Poor old Rieslng. She never deserved all of this. Doubly so, because she is beautiful and quite fantastic. And here’s why…

The world, and especially the UK, have gone potty (quite unaccountably, to some extent) for Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. Some 60%+ of all white wine sold in the UK is accounted for by just these two grapes.

But what these two grapes do well, Riesling does, frankly, far better. The acidity, bite and refreshment of SB and PG are more than matched by even a passable Riesling and, whilst the fruits of Riesling may be different (more citric, in the main, but do see below), there’s no lack of the fruitiness that draws folk to today’s popular whites. And oak is no issue here: oak doesn’t enter the equation with any of today’s top-selling whites. This is all about buyer perception. I’m really quite sure of that now: blind taste friends and family on a good, dry Riesling (and I do this a lot being the Riesling evangelist that I am) - especially one with a fuller body (the Riesling, not the friend) - and they almost invariably love it.

But Riesling does so much more than this, especially for the serious wine fan.

Firstly, it is the best ageing of any (dry) white wine. Period. In a world of uncertain statements, vagaries, fake news and blatant lies, I’m quite happy about the veracity of this assertion. Good Sémillon, Marsanne, Assyrtiko and the very best white Burgundies (especially Chablis) all have their claims, I accept, but Riesling is the undisputed queen of ageing gracefully. Some of the above will make it to 20 years in a good vintage. But at 20 years, most top Rieslings are only just getting started. What’s more, it’s not just that Riesling merely holds her shape as she ages, it’s that she becomes so much better and more interesting as she does. “Honey, toast and petrol” (for this last one, see also “machine oil”, “kerosene” or “diesel” as you prefer) are the famous development flavours of good Riesling. They’re not for everyone, but many, we know, find these highly addictive. And Riesling need not be drunk in its dotage: year-old Riesling, packed with citric, fruity zesty zing is a great glass in itself.

The other great attraction of Riesling is its diversity. Wine fans are famously keen to experience and talk of the influence of terroir: the local - and very specific - environmental conditions and factors that give rise to the (equally specific) character of a wine. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (most famously in Burgundy) are great vectors of terroir and (almost as famously) produce very different wines across and throughout the New and Old Worlds. And Riesling is their terroir-reflective equal: its aroma and flavours range from their most citric (lemon, grapefruit and lime) in the cool Mosel and USA, through the stone fruit (peaches, apricots) of Alsace and Chile to even something quite tropical from the warmer districts of Austria and New Zealand. And that’s before we talk of the minerality tang of poor soils or altitude-driven notes in South American examples.

Almost finally in this litany of praise comes that sweetness question. You can do almost anything here with Riesling (in a way that you generally can’t, say, with Chardonnay). From the bone-driest of dry wines (at less than 1g/litre of residual sugar) to the sweetest of dessert wines (300+g/litre is not unknown for the biggest Trockenbeerenausleses (TBAs) of Austria and Germany), Riesling makes some truly stunning wines. What makes all of that possible is Riesling’s shimmeringly high acidity that prevents all that sugar from seeming flabby and heavy. Where sweetness is concerned, you chooses your Riesling, you takes your pick.

Finally, comes price. And quality. Or value, if you prefer. Riesling has never become daftly costly (except, perhaps, from the steepest-sided, hardest-to-work valleys of Germany and Austria). If there’s one category of wines that continues to score highly (by which, we mean 93 points and above) in Decanter and does this at affordable prices (by which, we mean £20 or less), then it is Riesling.

And that’s the gist of what follows. After all, we want you not just to know about Riesling, but to try it and buy it, too. We’ve pulled together those Rieslings, from all the top Riesling-producing regions of the globe, that either we or Decanter rate highly, all beneath the £20 barrier (some will be markedly less, and we’ve also pointed you towards a few more where great pricier options occur).

From the Old World...

One simply has to start with Riesling’s homeland of Germany. And here the very best Rieslings can be, we accept, quite pricey. But there are fabulous Rieslings for less. Our favourite of a big bunch comes from one of the great producers of the Nahe valley, famed for its rather riper/warmer variants. Tesch’s Krone Riesling 2016 is very precise (and just a fraction pineapple-y, we have decided), biodynamically produced and hails from a single vineyard (or Einzellage, if you will). At £16 from a famed winemaker, this is a brilliantly priced entry into better German Riesling.

Up the Danube we go to Austria’s Vienna, where we find innovative-yet-tradtional Wieninger and their Wiener Riesling 2017 … our top-value favourite of a good many Austria Rieslings we offer. The warmer climes and lower latitudes of Austria really show here at an excellent ~£15.

Then there’s Alsace, where the dry, cool climate is perfect for some of the world’s best Riesling producers. Here Trimbach stand as one of the greats, and their range of Rieslings is quite wonderful. For brevity and anguish, we’re limiting ourselves to just the one here, and their Riesling Reserve 2017 has a sumptuous, luxurious ripe depth and richness (not to mention colour) to it. This really is one of the best-value Rieslings we can offer.

...to the New World…

Australia seems an odd place for a cool-climate, high-acidity grape. And yet, as fans of Tasmanian, Western Australian, Eden Valley and Clare Valley Rieslings will know all too well, these are some of the world’s very best. Certainly, few Rieslings have the same ageability as those of Clare and Eden. Decanter’s April 2018 review revealed a welter of top-scoring, low-cost Rieslings: for us, the pick of the bunch remain the two Polish Hill River specimens from Pauletts (98 and 96 points) and Peter Lehmann’s Wigan (96 points). The Wigan and older Pauletts both have fantastic age development flavours already aboard (drink now or keep, you choose…) while the 2017 Pauletts is young – very young in Clare Valley terms – but from one of the best vintages for well over a decade: lay this one down with great confidence.

The surprise with New Zealand is not that it produces such great Rieslings, but that it has taken the rest of the world so long to realise. September’s Decanter fully told us as much. It’s only a month or so ago, but we’ll make a lot of noise again about the “vivacious” “full-throttle”, already-complex Te Kairanga Riesling 2016… at just £12.50 a bottle.  See also, at a price beyond our remit here, the Prophet’s Rock alternative from Central Otago. Wow!

We tend to think of the USA as California, all too often, where wine is concerned. And, for sure, the term “a Riesling’s chance in Napa” may yet catch on. But that would be to forget the cool Pacific North-West and New York State. Both have a Riesling style of their own.

There’s a richness-but-delicacy about our great offerings from Washington State, being

-          the wackily-marketed Kung Fu Girl 2017 from equally (very) wacky Charles Smith (see this video - click on photo below): this is a Riesling that drinks very nicely young, but will do you a good many years yet;

 

and

-          the Eroica 2016, a fascinating joint venture between Germany’s Dr (Ernie) Loosen and Washington stalwart, Chateau St Michelle. Don’t miss their (almost) hilarious video

From the eastern seaboard, New York State’s Finger Lakes are becoming much discovered for Rieslings made to be very precise, tight, melony/lemony and (bear with me) “laser-etched” (not my term, blame the wider wine journalist network). We love Fox Run’s offering, as do the customers we’ve directed this way. It proved very popular recently with the Inverness Wine Appreciation Society; full respect to their collective Riesling palates....

 

And for really top value (which surely can’t last a whole lot longer)? Chile. The Central Valley area – famous for its Cab Sauvs/Carmenères/Merlots is way too warm to be Riesling country. But the dry, cool Elqui and San Antonio Valleys are ideal, producing a delightful, pure, clear style of Riesling (much at one with those of the Finger Lakes, weirdly): we’ve two cracking, super-value examples from Falernia and Vina Leyda, the latter scoring a well-deserved 94 points in the June 2019 Decanter.

Finally, we have to point out a single “sticky”. We’ve a good many sweet Rieslings, but Seifried’s Sweet Agnes 2016 (from Nelson, NZ) is a deserved and brilliant Platinum medal winner/97-pointer at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards. We’ve always said. “this is special stuff” and we mean it.

In conclusion,

  • Riesling is brilliant. And brilliantly priced.
  • If quality, elegant whites are your thing and you’d eschewed Riesling for any reason, you could do a lot lot worse than any or all of the above.
  • If you know and love your Riesling(s), but not the above wines, be unaware no longer.
  • A mixed case of Rieslings from around the world is a wonderful thing.
  • The question, honestly, should be “Pinot Grigio? Really?”.
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Pauletts Polish Hill River Riesling 2017 (1x75cl)

** LAST FEW BOTTLES OF 2017 VINTAGE - EXCELLENT, HIGHLY-RATED 2019 VINTAGE NOW ALSO IN STOCK **

** Important general tasting point: this wine - and many other fine Rieslings from South Australia - have quite strong aromas/tones of petrol/diesel/kerosene/machine oil (take your pick). This is not a fault. There's nothing wrong with the wine. For a bit more detail and some chemistry, see here. It's an aroma (and lesserly, a flavour) that is repugnant to some customers, and utterly addictive to others (a bit like chilli in food). Do please note before buying this wine; indeed, many customers buy this wine specifically for the 'petrol hit'! **

The 2014 vintage of this wine was a huge hit when it featured in Decanter (www.decanter.com) recently. The current 2017 vintage is now newly available and also superb; indeed, as the below vintage table (also from Decanter) shows, 2017 is already talked of by some as the best Riesling vintage in Australia for over 15 years.

The 2014 vintage was awarded 98 points and rare Exceptional status by Decanter (www.decanter.com) in their April 2018 edition review of Australian Riesling  (see blue link below) .

Pauletts Polish Hill River Riesling 2014 - April 2018 Decanter review

See also here for Decanter's assessment of Australian Riesling vintages (click blue link below).

Decanter Australian vintage summary

Clare Valley is one of Australia`s oldest wine regions and is probably best known for its Riesling wines. Polish Hill River is a sub-region one and a half hours drive north from Adelaide. Named after the Polish settlers of the mid 1800s, the climate is ideal for premium grape growing with a combination of consistently good winter rains, hot summers tempered by cool nights and a long ripening period.

Pauletts' reputation for producing wines of finesse, elegance and intensity is justly deserved with consistent skill and care from vintage to vintage. Neil Paulett graduated from the Roseworthy oenology course in the early 1970s and spent a further ten years honing his winemaking skills at Penfolds before buying his own property in the Clare Valley. Located some 90 minutes north of Adelaide,this lovely property now extends to 150 hectares with 47 planted with vines. Since the first vintage in 1983 there have been many accolades both at home and internationally. These wines are a true reflection of the region and are of outstanding quality.

The Clare Valley yields one of the world`s great styles of Riesling. This youthful, aromatic, dry wine has intense mineral and floral aromas on the nose. These aromas follow through on the palate leading to flavours of lime, citrus and white blossom. Tropical fruits and citrus dominate the fresh, racy acidity and a distinct minerality comes through on the palate leaving a fantastic, clean finish.

This wine is a good choice to accompany seafood, especially prawn, crab, oysters and bass and mildly spiced Thai stir fry and seafood curries.

ABV = 12.8%.

£13.95

Pauletts Polish Hill River Riesling 2019 (1x75cl)

James Halliday Wine Companion Magazine ‐ April/May 2020  ‐  95 points.

** Important general tasting point: this wine - and many other fine Rieslings from South Australia - have quite strong aromas/tones of petrol/diesel/kerosene/machine oil (take your pick). This is not a fault. There's nothing wrong with the wine. For a bit more detail and some chemistry, see here. It's an aroma (and lesserly, a flavour) that is repugnant to some customers, and utterly addictive to others (a bit like chilli in food). Do please note before buying this wine; indeed, many customers buy this wine specifically for the 'petrol hit'! **

The 2014 vintage was awarded 98 points and rare Exceptional status by Decanter (www.decanter.com) in their April 2018 edition review of Australian Riesling  (see blue link below) .

Pauletts Polish Hill River Riesling 2014 - April 2018 Decanter review

Clare Valley is one of Australia`s oldest wine regions and is probably best known for its Riesling wines. Polish Hill River is a sub-region one and a half hours drive north from Adelaide. Named after the Polish settlers of the mid 1800s, the climate is ideal for premium grape growing with a combination of consistently good winter rains, hot summers tempered by cool nights and a long ripening period.

Pauletts' reputation for producing wines of finesse, elegance and intensity is justly deserved with consistent skill and care from vintage to vintage. Neil Paulett graduated from the Roseworthy oenology course in the early 1970s and spent a further ten years honing his winemaking skills at Penfolds before buying his own property in the Clare Valley. Located some 90 minutes north of Adelaide,this lovely property now extends to 150 hectares with 47 planted with vines. Since the first vintage in 1983 there have been many accolades both at home and internationally. These wines are a true reflection of the region and are of outstanding quality.

For this, their 2019 Riesling, here's Pauletts' own data sheet/fiche technique:

Paulett Polish Hill River Riesling 2019 - fiche technique

The Clare Valley yields one of the world`s great styles of Riesling. This youthful, aromatic, dry wine has intense mineral and floral aromas on the nose. These aromas follow through on the palate leading to flavours of lime, citrus and white blossom. Tropical fruits and citrus dominate the fresh, racy acidity and a distinct minerality comes through on the palate leaving a fantastic, clean finish.

This wine is a good choice to accompany seafood, especially prawn, crab, oysters and bass and mildly spiced Thai stir fry and seafood curries.

ABV = 12.8%.

£14.30

Peter Lehmann Masters `Wigan` Riesling 2013 (1x75cl)

** Important general tasting point: this wine - and many other fine Rieslings from South Australia - have quite strong aromas/tones of petrol/diesel/kerosene/machine oil (take your pick). This is not a fault. There's nothing wrong with the wine. For a bit more detail and some chemistry, see here. It's an aroma (and lesserly, a flavour) that is repugnant to some customers, and utterly addictive to others (a bit like chilli in food). Do please note before buying this wine; indeed, many customers buy this wine specifically for the 'petrol hit'! **

The 2012 vintage was awarded 96 points and Outstanding status by Decanter (www.decanter.com) in their April 2018 edition review of Australian Riesling  (see blue link below) .

Peter Lehmann Masters Wigan Riesling 2012 - April 2018 Decanter review

Peter Lehmann, with 33 vintages already under his belt, started his own winery in 1979, partly as a means of helping with the glut of grapes then afflicting the Barossa. "I'll take your grapes and turn them into wine," he told the desperate growers, many of them conservative farmers of Silesian descent who regarded their old vines as part of their patrimony. "But I'll only be able to pay you when I sell the wine." They gratefully accepted. Without this deal, it is widely thought that the Barossa would have lost a huge chunk of its old vines. The 'Masters' wines are made from the parcels regarded by the winemakers as the best Semillon, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz of the vintage.

Known for producing truly world class Riesling, the soils of the Eden Valley are shallow and rocky. The fruit for this wine comes from the William Hurn - Ross' Block single vineyard.

The 2013 vintage came early and was one of the driest and quickest for many years. The weather remained warm to hot throughout, but without any extended heat waves. The small crop produced outstanding wines that show delicacy and great purity of fruit.

The grapes were picked early and fermented cold in stainless steel for two weeks before clarification. Bottling took place immediately, then the wine was cellared at the winery for five years prior to release.

100% Riesling.

Residual sugar = 5g/litre.

The 2013 'Wigan' Riesling is delicate in colour with youthful highlights, and a soft aroma of lime cordial combined with toasty characters. The palate shows great fruit purity with a fresh, crisp, dry finish. This is one of the classic Wigan Rieslings from an exceptional vintage, which will age well.

ABV = 11.0%.

£19.85

Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2018 (1x75cl)

Awarded 89 points and Recommended status by Decanter in their January 2020 edition article, Top Washington (State) Buys (see blue link below).

Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2017 - January 2020 Decanter review

As the maker puts it: "It takes an unconventional winemaker to make a totally unexpected dry Riesling. One night, Charles was eating Chinese takeout and watching a fight scene in a notorious martial arts film when he had an idea: a killer white wine made to be paired with Asian food. Just like that, Kung Fu Girl was born. And it’s been kicking ass and taking names ever since".

More traditionally put: This wine is made by Charles Smith, a self–taught winemaker who brings his rock and roll spirit to the vineyards of Walla Walla, Washington. As a romantic young man, Charles Smith moved across the world to Denmark to follow his love for his girlfriend at the time. In Scandinavia, he became a recognized manager for rock bands such as The Raveonettes. While travelling on the road with these bands, he developed his passion for wine. In 1999, he moved back to Washington, opened a wine store and became friendly with a French winemaker, later convincing him to move to Walla Walla to make wine together.

Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling grapes comes from Evergreen Vineyard vines, where they stretch across the steep cliffs overlooking the Colombia River. This makes for ideal Riesling growing conditions that rival those in Germany. This wine is made from 100% Riesling grapes, carefully cultivated and pressed at the winery. The wine is barrel-aged for only 2 months (using the sur lie method, ie leaving the wine on its fine lees). Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling is crafted to be approachable and ready to drink the day you buy it.

The wine is a party in a glass. Young and fun, bright balance and tropical fruit notes make this an easy introduction to the world of Riesling. White stone fruit, apricot and white peach aromas with honeysuckle undertones make it a stand out. These flavours are balanced with elements of lime zest, citrus blossom and a floral hint of jasmine.

This wine would pair well with any number of foods. It can very easily be enjoyed on its own but Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling is a match made in heaven with Korean BBQ, spicy curry any kind of Thai food and sushi. Snow crab, lobster, prawns, roasted chicken or grilled salmon would also pair well.

100% Riesling.

Residual sugar = 1.4g/litre (ie bone dry).

To see an information sheet and tasting note for this wine from the team at Charles Smith Wines, please click on the blue link below.

Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2017 - fiche technique

ABV = 12.0%.

£16.05

Vina Leyda La Neblina Riesling 2019 (1x75cl)

The 2018 vintage was awarded 90 points and Highly Recommended status by Decanter (www.decanter.com) in their October 2019 edition panel tasting of Alternative South American Whites (see blue link below).

Viña Leyda La Neblina Riesling 2018  - October 2019 Decanter review

The 2015 vintage (long since sold out in the UK) was awarded 92 points and Highly Recommended status by Decanter (www.decanter.com) in that same panel (blue link below).

Viña Leyda La Neblina Riesling 2015  - October 2019 Decanter review

The 2015 vintage was awarded 94 points and Highly Recommended status by Decanter in their June 2019 tasting/article of/on Top 30 Chilean Wines Under £25 (see blue link below).

Viña Leyda La Neblina Riesling 2015 - June 2019 Decanter review

Few wineries encapsulate the development of coolclimate winemaking in Chile as well as pioneering Viña Leyda. The first producer to explore this coastal area, a rising star of New World winemaking, it took its name from the local railway station and later lent it to the entire DO of Leyda Valley. If Casablanca Valley represents Chile’s first tentative steps into cool-climate production, Leyda is a series of determined, confident strides: just 14km from the Pacific, the Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah planted here express a crispness, minerality and fine-boned structure not found elsewhere in Chile’s viticultural paradise. Viña Leyda now has more than 200 hectares under vine, but the approach remains one of micromanagement, with detailed mapping of each vineyard and individual lot, and constant experimentation with clonal selection and viticultural techniques.

This 100% Riesling wine comes from vineyards located in the fairly-recently-discovered Leyda Valley, located 12 km from the Pacific Ocean. Its closeness to the sea makes it a unique spot for viticulture. Its cool conditions during spring and summer due to maritime influence and summer breezes makes it an extraordinary area for the development of white varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling.

These grapes were carefully transported to the winery in 400 kg bins and then, selected on a stainless steel sorting table, leaving only the best fruit. Then the clusters were pressed as whole bunches, in pneumatic press at low bars, separating the best quality juice. The juice was chilled down to 8º C and gravity clarified. The fermentation, carried out 100% in stainless steel tank, was at low temperatures (13-14°C, finishing at 16°C) for 18-20 days. After reaching dryness, the wine was left on its lees for 6 months to achieve roundness and improve the texture in the palate.

The pureness of this Riesling is shown in its floral, fruity and delightful flavours. They are elegant, mineral, expressive, with papaya, tangy, mandarin fruit and floral hints. It has a creamy texture on the palate, with sweet honey suckle, white fruit, crisp acidity and juicy-lingering ending.

£14.05

Seifried Sweet Agnes Riesling 2016 (1x 37.5cl Half)

Awarded 93 points and Highly Recommended status by Decanter (www.decanter.com) in their January 2019 edition review of Dessert Wines and Ports (see blue link below).

Seifried Sweet Agnes Riesling 2016 - January 2019 Decanter review

Awarded a Platinum Medal and 97 points at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards (click link for details).

For other 2018 DWWA winners, click here.

Also awarded 95 points and a Platinum Best In Category (Best New Zealand Sweet) at the Decanter World Wine Awards (www.decanter.com): see their August 2017 DWWA supplement (see blue link below).

Seifried Sweet Agnes Riesling 2016 - August 2017 Decanter review

When Hermann Seifried and his New Zealand wife Agnes first planted grapes in the Moutere Valley near Nelson, Seifried has grown to become one of New Zealand’s most sustainable family-owned wineries. With 14 vinifera varieties, on two hectares of land, they began the South Island’s modern commercial wine industry. Hermann and Agnes were true pioneers, experimenting with what classical European varieties may do well in this untested climate and terroir. Today it has grown from very modest beginnings to become one of New Zealand’s most sustainable wineries, producing the very best Nelson has to offer. The site that Herman and Agnes chose for their new vineyards was perfect in terms of location. It is surrounded by mountains to the east, west and south (Richmond and Western Ranges) and the Tasman Sea to the north, which moderates the temperate climate throughout the year. The sunshine here was also a real drawcard, with an average of over 2,400 hours of sunshine a year, earning Nelson its reputation as the ‘Sunshine Capital of New Zealand’. 1976 was the first harvest with five distinctive varietal wines being made - Riesling, Sylvaner, Chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau and Refosco.

Click this link for an excellent video (4'20") on Seifried.

This, the Sweet Agnes, is special stuff. Made with extreme care by Seifried in NZ’s South Island, the Sweet Agnes is pure, late-harvested Riesling: left on the vine, the grapes gain even greater ripeness, lose moisture and so become incredibly sweet (the wine’s sugar content is ~180g/litre). It’s almost amber in colour, and its flavours include lemon sherbet, marmalade, tropical fruits and butterscotch. It’s quite irresistible on its own and delicious with fruity puddings or tangy cheeses (particularly blue cheeses: it really is amazing with these).

100% Riesling..

Residual sugar = 175g/litre - this is seriously sweet.

To see the winemakers notes on this wine, please click on the blue link below.

Seifried Sweet Agnes Riesling 2016 - fiche technique

ABV = 10.5%.

£20.40
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