The June 2019 edition of Decanter (www.decanter.com) makes its usual, detailed, panel-based, blind-tasted analysis, this time of South American premium/icon red blends.
For those immediately fearing that this is a category beyond their wallet/purse/credit card, it's worth noting that plenty of the high-scorers are in the £20-30 bracket, and, as the panel point out, "many of these wines can be considered bargains, especially when compared to super-premium red blends from Bordeaux, California and Tuscany."
We offer two of the four Outstanding (95-point +) wines that head that review, plus a good swathe of others on 92 and 93 points.
Scroll down if you'd prefer to get straight to the wines. This is the pre-amble, after all.
South American premium red blends - generally
These have become something of an institution and offer some truly exciting red wine opportunities at surprisingly acceptable prices.
The whole thing started quite recently (in wine terms). The superb potential of (especially) Chile and Argentina for very high quality wines was really only seized upon with gusto in the 1990s, most notably by Nicolás Catena in Argentina and Errazuriz's Eduardo Chadwick in Chile. Just as with Californian wines some decades earlier, the challenge was laid down to the primacy of Old World wines, and some South American icons - including some in this review - are now regarded among the world's greats. Indeed, the top wines of Catena - more below - are some of the finest wines we sell and among the hardest to source.
Here's a few key points:
95 wines were tasted/tested.
These were specified as latest releases, super-premium red blends with availability in the UK. <We're far from sure that the brief was adhered to, but let's overlook that for now.>
Four were rated as Outstanding (95 points and above), with another 46 ranked as Highly Recommended (90 and above).
The poll-topper - 96 points - is not UK-available <warning: the pure Malbec version is out there - do not confuse for the blend on test here>.
The four Outstandings were 3 Argentines and a Chilean. Across the 50 Outstandings and Highly Recommendeds, honours were evenly shared betwen Argentina (25), Chile (24) ... + 1 Uruguay. Fair to say, though, that the average Argentine score was higher than the Chilean.
We offer two of the 95-point Outstandings, of which, more details below (click the review boxes for more details and to buy):
- a Catena 2013 Mendoza classic (~75% Cab Sauvignon, ~25% Malbec) at £66.50 (actually a daftly good price for this wine); and
- an Uco Valley 100% Cabernet Franc (yes, we know) at a more attractive £26.25. There's limited immediate availability on this one, so do move quickly... although further stock is coming just for us.
The 2013 Nicolás is already revered as a world great, both generally, but especially this vintage. It's been rated many times by Decanter before and the Nicolás (in general) has featured on the Decanter Legends final page. With the possible exception of some of Catena's own top-flight 100% Malbecs, this is, in our view, as 'fine' a red wine as comes from South of Panama.
It draws on grapes from the three top Catena vineyards around Mendoza: La Piramide, Nicasia and the high-level, awesome Adrianna blocks (map and starry night-time photo above). These three vineyards are at varying height, allowing a blend to be drawn of greater immediate ripeness in the lower plots (used for the harder-to-ripen Cab Sauv) to higher acidity/tannin in the higher plots (used for the less strucutral Malbec). This allows for an optimum blend of great precision and structure to be put togther.
It's barrel-fermented in 100% new French oak and then oak-aged for 24 months (not the 18 specified by Decanter) in French oak - see the Catena data sheet.
What emerges from what we've tasted - and in the Decanter review - is a wine of restraint, finesse and elegance (the high Cab Sauv component, you see). As Decanter say, "real freshness and lift", "medium-bodied and elegant", "brilliant stuff: a lighter mezzoforte style. Love it!".
Certainly, we love it, but being mere wine merchants, cannot afford much of it. This is a wine for the connoisseur, we know. It matches for quality the true Bordeaux greats at many times its price. Forgive us, but if the Masterchef team were telling you ... "Wines don't get much better than this".
It's a phrase we use a fair bit: expensive wine is "not for everybody". Honestly, we'll not sell a whole bundle of the Nicolás. We might point out the more affordable members of the Catena fleet, however.
And, in this review, there is hope for the more-budget-conscious. It comes in the form of Kaiken's Obertura at £26.25.
Quite how a £26, 100% Cabernet Franc makes the premium + blend cut here (especially when Kaiken have more premium wines), we cannot figure.
But that doesn't diminish what is a brilliant wine. This blog writer admits to not "getting" Cabernet Franc until recently, and that came solely by dint of South America. Loire Cab Franc is not for me - sorry, I find it just too light and insubstantial. Bourgeuil and Chinon fans will pity my attitude, but I need just a little more octane in my reds. South American Cab Franc does just that, in much the same way that NZ Pinot Noir delivers something a little more 'substantial' than most Burgundy.
Kaiken are a favourite of ours - brilliant Malbecs at great prices and a super trad method fizz that goes close to most Champagne. Kaiken originated as a tran-Andes project by Chile's Montes, and are now firmly established as a Mendoza institution.
The Obertura, taken from Vistaflores area of the Uco Valley, and oak-aged in third-use French oak barriques, is a BIG wine, all the more so when you realise it stems from a grape not famed for its fullness. Decanter were quite unequivocal:
The other high-scorers
Beyond the two outstandings, there are 5 other excellent South American icons on good scores at attractive prices:
The 2015 vintage was awarded 95 points and Outstanding status by Decanter in their June 2019 panel tasting of South American Icon Wines (see blue link below).
Kaikenes are wild geese, native to Patagonia, that fly across the Andes between Chile and Argentina. Montes, the Chilean winery, crossed the Andes in the same way to set up in Mendoza. Their vineyards are situated in the heart of Mendoza and further to the south in Valle de Uco, where many of the premium producers are now sourcing their fruit. The focus is primarily on Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, a variety that has been somewhat forgotten as Malbec has surfed one wave of success after another in the past decade. Kaiken's own vineyards supply 70% of their production requirements and 30% is from vineyards that they control.
The grapes are sourced from Valle de Uco, one of Mendoza’s most prestigious sub-regions. Kaiken’s vineyard, located in Vista Flores, sits at 1,350 metres above sea level. Here, sunny days are followed by cool nights – this slows the growing season and allows Kaiken to obtain excellent grapes with wonderful freshness. The soils are mostly alluvial and are largely made up of pebbles and rocks.
To see an excellent information sheet and tasting note about this wine that has been written by the team at Kaiken, please click on the blue link below.
This wine is 100% Cabernet Franc.
This Cabernet Franc is deep ruby red in colour with elegant purple shades. The nose is complex, with ripe redcurrants, fresh plums and red pepper combined with spicy notes of black pepper. On the palate, it has beautiful fruit concentration balanced by fresh acidity and minerality, reflecting the high-altitude location of Vista Flores. The long, elegant finish displays red fruit and spicy aromas.
ABV = 14.5%.
Awarded 92 points and Highly Recommended status by Decanter in their June 2019 panel tasting of South American Icon Wines (see blue link below).
The winemaker's own technical sheets appear below (click blue links) - the Spanish inclusion may seem a little leftfield, but includes regional and other info that have yet to be put onto the English version.
Valdivieso's top wine and stable star, the Caballo Loco is known around the world and each year changes merely its edition and, technically, not its vintage. It brings together every Cabollo Loco made since 1992 (the year of version 1), in what is, effectively, a solera system (as used for sherry and brandy de Jerez).
The idea for Caballo Loco was inspired by the legendary Ribera de Duero, Vega Sicilia Único Gran Reserva, which is produced using the solera method. This is the winemaking technique used for sherry and brandy de Jerez production, in which barrel-aged wines from different years are progressively and fractionally blended for reasons of both complexity and consistency.
The first Caballo Loco was produced in 1994 (Caballo Loco 1) and made from a blend of 50% of that year’s vintage with an aged blend from 1992.
The resulting wine is bottle-aged for at least 18 months before release onto the market, and being a blend of wines from different years, there is, of course, no vintage on the label.
The grapes for the premium Caballo Loco come from four different vineyards in central Chile. The blend of the new wine varies each time it is made. Number 1 for example was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Pinot Noir, whilst later editions have contained varieties as diverse as Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carménère. Only Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are ever-present, these being blended with the best grapes from the other varieties that were most successful in the particular year (and best suited to create the intended balance of the Caballo Loco).
Each bottle of this version 17 therefore comprises:
- 50% version 16 and
- 50% of grapes from harvests from 2012 and 2013. New for version 17 was Carignan from Melozal (a sub-region of Maule) and Syrah from Limarí. This variety brings to the Caballo Loco another dimension of complexity, with balanced freshness and acidity.
The result is a wine of great concentration, quite unlike any other on the market. There is intense mature berry fruit on the nose and richness on the palate with velvety tannins, and so many layers of flavours that the wine is almost impossible to describe in detail. The secret blend of grapes from different vintages create intense aromas of dark cherry, coffee, and rich fruitcake. Full bodied on the palate with a beautiful lingering structure.
It is a unique - some say crazy - wine, which is quite incomparable. It has great aromatic complexity and in the mouth, and an ageing potential of at least 10 years.
ABV = 14.5%.